Question for the Masses: Is it better to buy a nicer used car with more miles or Is it better to buy a 'cheaper' car with fewer miles?
The 'nicer' model would be around 50k while the more 'economy' model would be somewhere around 15-20k.
Well, I'm really not entirely sure yet. Purely as a hypothetical, Let's say a 2012 Mini Cooper S with 50,000 miles or A 2014 Mazda 3 with 15,000 miles That's just an example.
I really loved the Miata though -- one of the best feeling standard transmissions I've ever used. And that engine was almost indestructible. I'm mulling: The Mini Cooper S Fiat 500 Mazda 2/3 Chevy Spark VW Beetle Kia Soul
You really are a young weirdo aint ya? :cheerful: Of those 5 Id say the Mini or the Kia. The Kia is prolly the easiest to have repaired when and IF ys need it fixed.
I haven't driven a Kia in over 10 years but the impression I got then was not good. Haven't really kept up with them. Kinda lumped them with Hyundai, which I have driven a handful of and would never buy at this point What's wrong with a nice Subaru? I generally suggest that or Toyota or Honda but no one listens to me
Kias have become dayum good vehicles. at 1st they were just a cheap throw away, Jap car wernt in his mix but Id say a Honda or Nissan would be the best option,
So here are a few things to consider 1. If a car has a timing belt (as compared to a timing chain) you need to replace the belt and the t-bar tensioner at 50k miles. It is recommended at 60k-70k or when the tensioner starts clicking (which no one except a car nut would hear). So if a car has a timing belt then you need to be careful with anything over 50k as that is an immediate $500 repair. If it has a chain, that is rated for 200k miles and pretty much isn't anything to worry about. If it is a japanese/korean car, pretty much count on it being a belt. 2. Front end parts start to go at 70k - this includes ball joints, tie rods, idler arms, front struts - this stuff is cheap to replace yourself, but will cost you a fortune at a mechanic. Look at the roads around their house - the rougher they are, the more beating these items took and the quicker you are going to have to replace them. 3. 50k means you are about ready for the second brake replacement. When the rotors are cool, take you finger and feel for grooves. If they are deep, that means your next brake replacement you are going to have to replace the rotors as well as the pads (since they didn't turn them last time). 4. Understand that parts for "nicer" cars are way more expensive than for "not nicer" cars. On my Shelby, I drop $1200 for tires every 22k miles and each oil change is $112. TLDR - in general, lower miles (30-40k) will net you a better return than higher miles (50k+)
Mazda Miata has good Consumer Reports ratings. Only know this offhand because my neighbor has one. Absolutely loves his convertible (it has a real, not cloth top to it!) Consumer Reports is pretty good resource on cars. If you really want to research the hell out of this before you buy (and you should if you don't have thousands of dollars to burn), get down to your local library and look through recent issues. We subscribe and there's car info in every one.
I just saw your short list... Looking at these have kind of reminded me of a roller skate or box on wheels...
When I shopped for my daughter's car, I wanted safety and reliability. Didn't want a young women stuck on the side of the road with a mechanical or dealing with mechanics more than necessary. I decided to buy an Acura with higher mileage (50k) than a lower mileage cheaper car. The luxury brands make safety features standard sooner and they do drop in initial price more quickly because the status wears off. Been happy with that decision so far after 5 years and hope the car goes for 10 - but that's on her budget now.
