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colleyvillesooner
5/14/2012, 06:20 PM
Wife was using it, between uses cleaned out lint trapper, went to turn it back on, then it started for a nano second and turned off. Now it just clicks like its gonna turn on, see the video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MVReii_ME2s&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Any suggestions. Door switch works i.e. light goes on and off when pressed. It's a whirlpool, probably 5-6 years old.

olevetonahill
5/14/2012, 06:26 PM
Wife was using it, between uses cleaned out lint trapper, went to turn it back on, then it started for a nano second and turned off. Now it just clicks like its gonna turn on, see the video:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MVReii_ME2s&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Any suggestions. Door switch works i.e. light goes on and off when pressed. It's a whirlpool, probably 5-6 years old.try that

olevetonahill
5/14/2012, 06:29 PM
No clue Bro. Ya might try to hand turn the drum se if it moves freely.

colleyvillesooner
5/14/2012, 06:33 PM
Drum spins freely

olevetonahill
5/14/2012, 06:40 PM
Drum spins freely

Noi Clue then bro
Sounds like an electronic started deal er somepun , Time fer THIS guy

http://www.examiner.com/images/blog/wysiwyg/image/maytag%281%29.jpg

olevetonahill
5/14/2012, 06:42 PM
Ya Might make sure the Lint trap is reinstalled correctly. Maybe turn the Power off and then back on.

Im just guessin here tho.

Breadburner
5/14/2012, 06:53 PM
Belt broke.....

colleyvillesooner
5/14/2012, 07:18 PM
Did both of those. Checked breakers, but power is on due to the clicking.

Any chance of something went down the lint vent it could Prevent it from firing? Checked the vent outside and all clear.

Turd_Ferguson
5/14/2012, 07:21 PM
Belt broke.....I'm think'n the same. They have a tentioner switch on'm. If the belt breaks or comes off, the motor won't run.

olevetonahill
5/14/2012, 07:32 PM
Did both of those. Checked breakers, but power is on due to the clicking.

Any chance of something went down the lint vent it could Prevent it from firing? Checked the vent outside and all clear.

I was thinkin turn the breaker off an then back on in hopes of reseting something

Turd, Bread , Could very well be a Belt, But that clickin noise dont sound like it

Ben, Pull the dryer out then UNPLUG it . pull the back off and just look around
If its the Belt ya will see it easy enough

colleyvillesooner
5/14/2012, 08:20 PM
Will do when I get back home.

olevetonahill
5/14/2012, 08:28 PM
Will do when I get back home.

Maybe take that Lint trap in an out a few times

Cant hurt to try it.

cleller
5/15/2012, 07:58 AM
Have you thought of a clothesline?

Tulsa_Fireman
5/15/2012, 11:14 AM
It's low on dryer fluid.

Curly Bill
5/15/2012, 12:01 PM
Just give it a swift kick!

Lott's Bandana
5/15/2012, 12:10 PM
thermal fuse. It is white in color, and about an inch and a half long, by a half inch wide, and has 2 wires coming to it, and it is held in by 1 screw. That is most likely the problem. If not, it would be a door switch, or a bad breaker

Read more: http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/dryer-repair/22785-whirlpool-dryer-will-not-start.html#ixzz1uxWoExSk
http://forum.appliancepartspros.com

This could be it. Doesn't say whether the thermal fuse eliminates other power operation like the light, etc., however, it seems to be a common-enough occurrence...especially if it was hot from the previous load.

colleyvillesooner
5/15/2012, 12:16 PM
thanks. my plan is to check everything for continuity when i get home from work today. that would cover that. hopefully i can figure it out soon.

colleyvillesooner
5/15/2012, 02:41 PM
Opened up and here is what i see. Where would the belt be? I opened the big black thing on the left and inside it was a fan. Nothing clogging the lint pipe, or the foil tube out of the house. Gonna use the ohm meter tonight and see what i can make out after the kids go to bed.


ENTIRE BACK:

http://img846.imageshack.us/img846/9689/photolxi.jpg

Top panel:

http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/6482/photo2an.jpg

I think this is the thermal fuse

http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/572/photo4keh.jpg

Timer
http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/9581/photo3jr.jpg
http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/3614/photo5hq.jpg

Tulsa_Fireman
5/15/2012, 02:50 PM
Take more stuff apart.

You'll find the belt eventually.

colleyvillesooner
5/15/2012, 03:07 PM
will do. ran out of time at lunch.

olevetonahill
5/15/2012, 03:21 PM
With it pulled out and the back off .
Turn the thing on and I bet you hear where that clicking noise is coming from
I dont think its the belt But I wont swear its not

colleyvillesooner
5/15/2012, 04:37 PM
OK, but i think I know where the clicking noise is coming from. The Timer. It probably makes that noise all the time when running you can't hear it over the dryer running.

Fraggle145
5/15/2012, 04:44 PM
Every time My dryer has had a problem its almost always one of the fuses. Well one time it was the heating element. Replace your fuses and it might help. Otherwise I got nothin...

colleyvillesooner
5/15/2012, 05:22 PM
Fuses in the dryer?

colleyvillesooner
5/15/2012, 05:22 PM
any idea where the model number is on these sumbitches?

olevetonahill
5/15/2012, 05:56 PM
any idea where the model number is on these sumbitches?

There appears to be a label on the back there up near the top with all the switches and stuff

cccasooner2
5/15/2012, 06:31 PM
Did you read the manual, maybe it has a schematic to guide you? I don't know if schematics are provided anymore, used to be standard I think.

jumperstop
5/15/2012, 06:43 PM
Did you read the manual, maybe it has a schematic to guide you? I don't know if schematics are provided anymore, used to be standard I think.

When my washer started acting up this is what I did. Had a step by step trouble shooting with whatever code the washing machine gave me. Mine said unplug and wait 30 min and plug back in....but most of the options were call a technician. Maybe google your model and see if there are certain issues with your particular dryer. I've heard belts aren't too hard to replace though if that is the issue, I just know I wouldn't want to be taking apart my dryer.

olevetonahill
5/15/2012, 09:00 PM
Bro. Make sure ya check that switch thats activated by the door closing

colleyvillesooner
5/15/2012, 09:05 PM
I will. When pressed with my hand it turns the light off and on. But I bet it can be broke and still do that.

olevetonahill
5/15/2012, 09:07 PM
With the door closed do you hear any other noise when ya try to turn it on?

colleyvillesooner
5/15/2012, 09:12 PM
Will try that too. Got home late, so just getting the oldest to bed.

olevetonahill
5/15/2012, 09:12 PM
Will try that too. Got home late, so just getting the oldest to bed.

Ya got a Busy life now with all the younguns

colleyvillesooner
5/15/2012, 09:22 PM
you aint kidding.

Alright here goes nothing...

olevetonahill
5/15/2012, 09:32 PM
Good luck Bro

colleyvillesooner
5/15/2012, 09:47 PM
Ok trying to check the switches. Site I read sad to set meter to r x1 to testthe Ohms I don't have that. I have this. What is the right setting.

http://i.pgu.me/OjpY5C9e_original.jpg

I turn it to 200k, touch one tester to each post on the thermal fuse and it stays reading 1.

If I touch both to the same post it goes through numbers and ends at 0.00

olevetonahill
5/15/2012, 09:49 PM
That one stumps me

colleyvillesooner
5/15/2012, 10:21 PM
Got the door switch off and don't know how to test it.

http://i.pgu.me/kuUSBEN-_original.jpg

The door switch has three prongs.

Tulsa_Fireman
5/15/2012, 10:53 PM
Multimeter 101.

Turn the Ohms down. Smallest setting, which is 200 on yours. When your multimeter says 1 like that on the Ohms setting, it simply means an open circuit. No conductivity, therefore no resistance to measure. Touch your leads together. It should bottom out close to zero. Now it has conductivity, therefore can measure the resistance in the circuit.

When testing switches, as would make sense, it either opens or closes the circuit. Simply put your leads on individual legs and activate the switch. Not BOTH leads on one leg, as that would have conductivity across the connector and never hit the switch. Instead, put your ground lead on the leg by itself, the hot lead on one of the others. Check the meter. Activate the switch. Check the meter. If the resistance in the circuit goes from open to measurable or vice versa as you work the switch, the switch is good and that's not your problem.

Given it's an electric dryer, I'm with the rest of the fellas that said it's a thermal breaker. These fail fairly often but they're stupid easy to fix. If you have a schematic, hunt it down. Should be a ceramic or plastic 2 or 3 lead thing mounted on the back of the dryer, probably right off the drum. You can use your multimeter to test these as well. If it's popped, you won't be able to get continuity through the breaker/fuse and will get that 1 reading on your meter. If it passes current and gives you a resistance reading, it's good.

colleyvillesooner
5/15/2012, 11:05 PM
Multimeter 101.

Turn the Ohms down. Smallest setting, which is 200 on yours. When your multimeter says 1 like that on the Ohms setting, it simply means an open circuit. No conductivity, therefore no resistance to measure. Touch your leads together. It should bottom out close to zero. Now it has conductivity, therefore can measure the resistance in the circuit.

When testing switches, as would make sense, it either opens or closes the circuit. Simply put your leads on individual legs and activate the switch. Not BOTH leads on one leg, as that would have conductivity across the connector and never hit the switch. Instead, put your ground lead on the leg by itself, the hot lead on one of the others. Check the meter. Activate the switch. Check the meter. If the resistance in the circuit goes from open to measurable or vice versa as you work the switch, the switch is good and that's not your problem.

Given it's an electric dryer, I'm with the rest of the fellas that said it's a thermal breaker. These fail fairly often but they're stupid easy to fix. If you have a schematic, hunt it down. Should be a ceramic or plastic 2 or 3 lead thing mounted on the back of the dryer, probably right off the drum. You can use your multimeter to test these as well. If it's popped, you won't be able to get continuity through the breaker/fuse and will get that 1 reading on your meter. If it passes current and gives you a resistance reading, it's good.

ok, the door swith has three posts. which lead is the ground, black or red?

I know where the thermal fuse is. do i just touch one of each of the prongs to the posts on the fuse?

What do you mean working the switch?

sorry for being a meter noob

colleyvillesooner
5/16/2012, 12:49 AM
kinda figured it out asking around on a appliance board. the common post is the middle one. when i connect it to the meter then test each of the other two, one goes to zero the other stays at 1. i think the one that goes to zero is the light, cause that worked before. so looks like i need a new one of those. Same with the thermal fuse. it reads 1 as well.

Two of the tree thermostats check out ok, but one reads like this:

http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/3253/thermostat2.jpg

Lott's Bandana
5/16/2012, 07:52 AM
Connect one lead of the multimeter to one end of the fuse. Connect the other end to the other end. If you have some measure of resistance (ohms), you have a good fuse because you are measuring the resistance of the good wire (a fuse is simply a wire designed to break under a certain load). If you have no resistance (open circuit) then the wire is broken and the fuse is blown. This keeps the dryer from operating because the wire has broken the circuit.

Fuses are a safety measure and fail for a reason. Often a good reason, sometimes just because it got too hot.


EDIT: This can also be considered maximum resistance as no resistance can also be a short.

colleyvillesooner
5/16/2012, 08:45 AM
cool thanks. working on getting the parts today. cleaned the crap out of it, even took of the vent tube inside the dryer and washed it out outside. hopefully i can throw the new parts on at lunch.

colleyvillesooner
5/16/2012, 02:57 PM
Well, I just fixed the **** outta that dryer. Replaced the thermal fuse an the door switch just in case. Started right up. Put it back together when I get home tonight and we are in business. Thanks for everyone's help. I know know how to use my multimeter, at least or one of the 30 things on it :D

olevetonahill
5/16/2012, 03:01 PM
Good deal

Now get to warshin them baby clothes

colleyvillesooner
5/16/2012, 03:07 PM
Ha, that ain't my job. ;)

Feels good to know I fixed it withheld in 2 days and only cost me $30. Would have easily been over $100 to pay someone else

pphilfran
5/16/2012, 03:11 PM
You done good...

olevetonahill
5/16/2012, 03:15 PM
Ha, that ain't my job. ;)

Feels good to know I fixed it withheld in 2 days and only cost me $30. Would have easily been over $100 to pay someone else

With yer previous lectrical deals I was starting to equate you with Norm

But ya got er done
Good jorb

OULenexaman
5/16/2012, 04:46 PM
man that's cold...you equate me with Norm and it's on.....road trip.

colleyvillesooner
5/16/2012, 04:54 PM
With yer previous lectrical deals I was starting to equate you with Norm

But ya got er done
Good jorb

I'm all growns up! In the past 18 months I've put in a new pool motor, fixed my polaris pool cleaner,replaced an alternator and fixed my dryer.

and this time i didn't even get electrocuted. Not even once!

olevetonahill
5/16/2012, 07:17 PM
I'm all growns up! In the past 18 months I've put in a new pool motor, fixed my polaris pool cleaner,replaced an alternator and fixed my dryer.

and this time i didn't even get electrocuted. Not even once!
Heh

Proud of yas.

Tulsa_Fireman
5/17/2012, 04:30 PM
I'm all growns up! In the past 18 months I've put in a new pool motor, fixed my polaris pool cleaner,replaced an alternator and fixed my dryer.

and this time i didn't even get electrocuted. Not even once!

Fine job.

Welcome to Mantown, population You.