car battery trouble

[colleyvillesooner]

I'm having trouble with the car I'm getting rid of semi-soon, but it needs a new alternator and battery. Car buddy is coming over later to help with the alternator but wants me to pull them out and get them tested at Autozone first.

Problem is I can't get the battery terminals loose. What is the right tool to get it loose. Pic below is of the negative terminal. What kind I use to get that nut off (heh)? A pic of the tool would be helpful.

man this thread has some gay undertones...

yes i know it is bad, lets glaze over that part, OK? I have tried every tool i have to get it loose and can't. I know it comes loose cause they had them off at the shop yesterday before hooking it back up and jumping it so i could get it home.
http://img691.imageshack.us/img691/7244/photo7wp.jpg

[C&CDean]

Mix a little baking soda with water and get an old toothbrush. Pour the soda over the terminal, and scrub it some with the brush. It should fizz some.

It looks like someone stripped the ridges off the head of the bolt. It also looks (although you can't tell from the pic) to be a 3/8 or maybe 7/16. If it's metric, it's somewhere between a 10mm and 13mm.

Get a deep socket of whichever size it is. See if you can get it on the bolt. Use a small hammer if you have to. Then ratchet it off.

Now before you go doing all that, you shouldn't have to remove either the alternator or the battery for testing. They can test it right in the vehicle.

[Frozen Sooner]

Coke will work as well if you don't have any baking soda.

[colleyvillesooner]

Mix a little baking soda with water and get an old toothbrush. Pour the soda over the terminal, and scrub it some with the brush. It should fizz some.

It looks like someone stripped the ridges off the head of the bolt. It also looks (although you can't tell from the pic) to be a 3/8 or maybe 7/16. If it's metric, it's somewhere between a 10mm and 13mm.

Get a deep socket of whichever size it is. See if you can get it on the bolt. Use a small hammer if you have to. Then ratchet it off.

Now before you go doing all that, you shouldn't have to remove either the alternator or the battery for testing. They can test it right in the vehicle.

I tried banging on the smaller one, but it won't go. I'll clean it and try again.

[C&CDean]

Did you miss the part about not having to take them out for testing?

And I didn't say bang on the bolt, I said tap a deep socket onto the head of the bolt.

[colleyvillesooner]

yeah, I heard you, i just don't have anyone around to jump it to get it up to Autozone to test it. If you can test it at home, i certainly don't have the tool currently to do that. I have a pretty reliable mechanic and they're the ones that told me the alternator and battery were bad. I was just taking it for testing to make sure. If i can't get the car there, i need to take the alternator there cause there are two different sizes they put in my year/model of car.

All clean now.

http://img686.imageshack.us/img686/2278/photo8b.jpg

I didn't bang on the bolt, i tried tapping a one size smaller deep socket onto the head and it didn't work. I'll try it now that it's clean. Window guys are here putting in our last new window, so I'll have to take a break. Appreciate the help. I'll keep you updated.

[GrapevineSooner]

Is it a foreign or domestic?

If it's foreign, you'll probably need a metric tool to get the connector off.

[colleyvillesooner]

it's a 1998 ford explorer sport

[Lott's Bandana]

This is coming in late, but visegrips didn't work? It also might be easier if you remove the other end of the cable and take then entire thing out.

[colleyvillesooner]

i may just wait until i can get somebody over here to try and jump it to take it to autozone, have them test it and get that bolt off if I can't. it's not wanting to let me get the smaller socket on there, and the correct size one just spins.

[C&CDean]

That looks like a square bolt. Try taking a flathead screwdriver and tapping it down in between the part of the cable end where it comes together (between the bolt and the terminal). It may loosen it enough so you can get a pair of pliers on it and twist it back and forth while you pull up on it.

You could also take some vise grips and grab the threaded end of the bolt and try loosening it from there. It will **** up the threads a little, but you really don't wanna use that bolt anymore anyhow.

[colleyvillesooner]

This is coming in late, but visegrips didn't work? It also might be easier if you remove the other end of the cable and take then entire thing out.

not the pair i have. I need to get a better one anyways, so this might be in my future

[colleyvillesooner]

That looks like a square bolt. Try taking a flathead screwdriver and tapping it down in between the part of the cable end where it comes together (between the bolt and the terminal). It may loosen it enough so you can get a pair of pliers on it and twist it back and forth while you pull up on it.

You could also take some vise grips and grab the threaded end of the bolt and try loosening it from there. It will **** up the threads a little, but you really don't wanna use that bolt anymore anyhow.

okay i'll give that a shot here in a sec.

[colleyvillesooner]

man this thing is being a total bitch.

[Crucifax Autumn]

Lighter fluid and a match?

[Flagstaffsooner]

Jeez Colley, open the hood and do little PM once and a while.

[colleyvillesooner]

And that helps me now how? ;)

I know, I know. I hate this car and she knows I'm fixing to **** can her *** with our tax return.

[OUHOMER]

Kids today:cool:










;)

[colleyvillesooner]

Well, got it up to autozone, and both alternator and battery are bad. Headed to home depot to get a good pair of vice grips and try to get that bolt off.

[Flagstaffsooner]

A little piece of advice. Dont let your battery get so yucky. It causes the alternator to work harder, ergo it burns out. The crap on the battery cables causes higher resistance to current flow.

[colleyvillesooner]

Thanks. I try to remember to do it I just don't. Need to put a pop up in my work email or something.

[StoopTroup]

Some folks say to buy some of the battery treatment and put those treated green and red rings under the new posts of the battery. Back in the day guys I know used to take a bit of grease and put it near the positive post about an inch or less away and press a penny to the top of the battery. I guess the theory was that the penny might either reduce the amount of corrosion or the corrosion would attack the penny more than the battery post.

I'm with flag though. I can see that you definitely need new cables if your going to invest in a new battery and alternator. Just quit screwing around with the old ones and cut the bastards....take the battery out and replace the cables, the battery and the alternator. The corrosion looks like it has migrated down the inside of the cables insulation to me. Also that area where you see bare copper wiring....not good. Not only can it also become corroded easier and cause problems to whatever it feeds power to...it is just another thing to have something short across it. Most folks will stay away from the battery ends...but might not see the bare wire and ground themselves or a ring to it. I saw a guy ground his wedding ring to a bare place on a battery cable once....not pretty.

http://www.viewpoints.com/images/review/2009/24/17/1232840916-1989_thumb.jpg
http://www.1stayd.com/catalog/newcatalog/Images/B93SPRAY.GIF
http://www.labsafety.com/images/regular/BATTERY-TERMINL-PROTECTR-12OZ-LSS-_i_LBM56346Z.jpg

For the bare wire. You might need to splice it back together or even put another small piece of the same gauge wire where you cut it. Before you put it back together...get yourself some shrink wrap tubing a little larger than the wire and slide it on the wire before you reattach them. Solder them too if you want. Then pull the shrink wrap over the repaired area and heat it up until it shrinks around the repair.
http://z.about.com/d/miniatures/1/0/j/9/-/-/tliteshrink.jpg

I like shrink wrap but others might tell you to just use some electrical tape and or a wire nut too just to make is easier.

http://www.joestradingpost.com/vats/starter_relay_08.jpg

[colleyvillesooner]

okay got them off:

http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/9060/photo12jv.jpg

Do i need to do anything to the cables to protect me while those are off?

I agree about the new battery cables, how hard is that? I'm about to start on getting the alternator out. wish me luck. I assume i could pick up those new cables atthe auto store.

Would something like this work?

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Battery+Cable/03318/C0005.oap?make=Ford&model=Explorer&year=1998&vi=1304413

[OklaPony]

okay got them off:

Do i need to do anything to the cables to protect me while those are off?

I agree about the new battery cables, how hard is that? I'm about to start on getting the alternator out. wish me luck. I assume i could pick up those new cables atthe auto store.

Would something like this work?

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Battery+Cable/03318/C0005.oap?make=Ford&model=Explorer&year=1998&vi=1304413
1. Nope
2. I prefer to leave battery cable terminal work to someone who has access to the correct lugs and crimpers. Definitely not the place to use the wrong stuff, even if you're selling the vehicle. In fact you can use the recent battery cable replacement as a selling point.

P.S. - I'm betting the bolt was originally 8mm.

[colleyvillesooner]

Now I can't get the alternator carriage bolts out. I feel like such a puss.

It it counter clockwise to loosen them right? I'm guessing I should be able to pop that middle thing out, as it feels from top and bottom like the push snaps used on door interiors and such.


http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/4350/photo9eb.jpg

[colleyvillesooner]

Any suggestions on how to get more torque on those 13mm bolts?

[OklaPony]

Any suggestions on how to get more torque on those 13mm bolts?
Put a piece of pipe (or something to act as an extension) on the end of your ratchet handle, leverage is your friend.

[StoopTroup]

Put a piece of pipe (or something to act as an extension) on the end of your ratchet handle, leverage is your friend.

For taking them off.

Righty tighty...lefty loosy

http://www.4runners.org/image/elocker/lca/lca_wrench_trick.jpg

[colleyvillesooner]

That's funny, I just picked up a piece of pipe at home depot. Will report back.

[OUHOMER]

Is this what your alt looks like? its hard to tell what I am looking at in your pick.

http://www.dcpowerinc.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/small_image/135x135/5e06319eda06f020e43594a9c230972d/t/a/tad_230_f.jpg

[colleyvillesooner]

Pretty much.

[olevetonahill]

Use a 6 point socket if you have one . If you dont you may round off the Bolt heads and then Thats just More trouble.

Instead of replacing the entire Cable , If you have enough length in the existing , Cut those corroded ends off and use these in replacement . Make sure every thing is tight.

http://www.hotrodwires.com/cart/images/products/BatteryCableTop1cRev-lg.jpg

[OUHOMER]

Pretty much.

do you have a socket set, your going to have to put some elbow grease on it. This should not be that hard of a job.

[colleyvillesooner]

It's ****ing out!!!!

Used the pipe and that worked. they were on there good. Thanks for everyone's help.

Now, how to i get the power cord thing off? does it just twist off? i don't want to break it.

http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/2323/photo10s.jpg

[OUHOMER]

No the rubber cap on the end should come off and it either have clips or some very small nuts

[colleyvillesooner]

Got it. Thanks. Headed to get the new alternator. Stayed tuned for part 2 of Colley Ruins His Car: The Reversal

[StoopTroup]

Use a 6 point socket if you have one . If you dont you may round off the Bolt heads and then Thats just More trouble.

Instead of replacing the entire Cable , If you have enough length in the existing , Cut those corroded ends off and use these in replacement . Make sure every thing is tight.

http://www.hotrodwires.com/cart/images/products/BatteryCableTop1cRev-lg.jpg

Vets right about those leads and you can use them if your gonna keep your costs down. If you are trying to fix the vehicle up to sell....I think it was pony that said it becomes a selling feature because it looks like you are selling a well maintained vehicle.

Those leads Vet posted are cheap alternatives...if you treat them like the ones you are cutting off....you'll end up replacing those cables soon and as Flag said....your resistance goes up and the alternator burns up quicker. It's a judgment call.

[colleyvillesooner]

Thanks fir everyones help. I jumped it and drove it around with no issues. We'll see if it starts later as a true test.

I feel a little more manly. Now, off to figure out how to get this black **** off my hands.

[OUHOMER]

did you have the battery tested?

[OUHOMER]

Thanks fir everyones help. I jumped it and drove it around with no issues. We'll see if it starts later as a true test.

I feel a little more manly. Now, off to figure out how to get this black **** off my hands.

LOL, here's a little SPEk for your man card :D

[Frozen Sooner]

No the rubber cap on the end should come off and it either have clips or some very small nuts

That's what she said.

[colleyvillesooner]

did you have the battery tested?


Yeah both alternator and battery were bad. Replaced them both. We work in the terminals tomorrow and promise to watch for corrosion more often. :D

[olevetonahill]

Thanks fir everyones help. I jumped it and drove it around with no issues. We'll see if it starts later as a true test.

I feel a little more manly. Now, off to figure out how to get this black **** off my hands.


Yeah both alternator and battery were bad. Replaced them both. We work in the terminals tomorrow and promise to watch for corrosion more often. :D



Ok Just read all of the Post . You need to either Replace the entire Cable or Just cut the old ends off and put those on that I gave a Pic of .

[OUHOMER]

Bro If ya replaced the Battery why did you have to Jump it ?:confused:

What did you do with the Cables? If ya dint replace em they may not be lettin the juice thru

Good question

[colleyvillesooner]

The guide i read about replacing the alternator said you may need to jump it. But that guide didn't plan on me replacing the battery too. I actually didn't test it before trying to jump it. I'm an idiot.

I went back out an hour later and it started just fine.

[OUHOMER]

The guide i read about replacing the alternator said you may need to jump it. But that guide didn't plan on me replacing the battery too. I actually didn't test it before trying to jump it. I'm an idiot.

I went back out an hour later and it started just fine.

I need that man card spek back:cool:








;)

[colleyvillesooner]

I know. I was just so glad to be freakin' done!

[olevetonahill]

The guide i read about replacing the alternator said you may need to jump it. But that guide didn't plan on me replacing the battery too. I actually didn't test it before trying to jump it. I'm an idiot.

I went back out an hour later and it started just fine.

Yea if ya just replacing the Alternator, you prolly have to jump the thing. New Battery? Ya better not, Or the new battery aint worth a **** .:eek:

[olevetonahill]

Oh and if Its starting Fine , I wouldnt worry to much about the cable ends then . Just paint em with some of that Anti corrosion crap ya can get at the Parts store :cool:

[AlbqSooner]

LOL. I just read this whole thread. Had a client when I practiced in Anadarko. He was in his late 60s and came in one afternoon shaking his head. He said he and his grandson had spent the morning working on a combine. "That boy has a college education and cain't overhaul a combine. WTF do they teach in college?":D :D

[Crucifax Autumn]

You most likely shoulda replaced the flux capacitor while you were at it.

[colleyvillesooner]

:mad:

[unbiasedtruth]

cru I was thinking besides the flux capacitor, he should have gone ahead and rplaced the timing belt and done a valve job too.....

[StoopTroup]

cru I was thinking besides the flux capacitor, he should have gone ahead and rplaced the timing belt and done a valve job too.....

Naw....sounds like he did a decent hillbilly save.

[RacerX]

Baby aisle of the store - a foaming soap that does a great job of cleaning your hands. Grease, paint, whatever. It's called Kandoo.

[StoopTroup]

Dawn and a scrub brush will get grease off your hands.

If you have paint on them...learn to use gloves or before you paint...they make this stuff that acts as a invisible glove that you can out on your hands prior to painting. I think it may have a lot of lanolin in it and is a pretty thick creme that you rub into your hands. Some folks can't tolerate it. If you put it under your nails too....your hands will get clean very easy especially if you go buy a bar of Lava.

http://www.protectivecream.com/
http://www.protectivecream.com/chart.html

[StoopTroup]

BTW...Penetone 411 protective cream is $19.00 for an 8 oz tube....so I'd just wear some gloves....lol

[Flagstaffsooner]

And always......check your blinker fluid.

[StoopTroup]

If the muffler bearings start to rattle....get to a shop fast.

[OUHOMER]

If the muffler bearings start to rattle....get to a shop fast.

When i was in high school, i had a part time job cleaning spark plugs for diesel engines on big trucks plus other odd jobs on the trucks.

it was always amazing to me that they would hear the muffler bearings going bad, but wouldnt do anything about it until it was to late.:eek: I guess it was a deal where they cost was the same and they didnt want to take the truck out of service until they had too.

[AlbqSooner]

Sounds like a pretty easy job for a high school kid.